I want to write about this one quickly before going away. We weren’t expecting much, with the hot weather and rain during the week, but we were surprised. Good spring skiing conditions, albeit in December, with carpet-like soft snow on the top.
Stats:
Depart 09h45, Summit:13h15, parking 14h15
10.8km 992m+
Not a huge amount to say about this one. We arrived in les Contamines at around 10am with the idea of doing Tête de la Combaz. I had endured the obligatory end of year parties on the Thursday and Friday before the weekend, but it was safe to say that I was not on the best of form. I was tired and not massively motivated for the outing.
We arrived in Contamines at 09h30 and had a tight deadline to be back at the car by 13h45 at the latest. It was cold in the valley, probably around -1 °C or -2°C but we knew it wouldn’t last. The snow line was higher than expected and we had to walk almost 350m+ before we put the skis on.
Putting the skis on finally at 1550m
From the minute the skis went on it was hot. My motivation wasn’t high but we endeavoured on, still holding on to a glimpse of hope that the top might be attainable. Alas, 12h15 came- the turnaround time- and we still had 300m+ to do.
So it was skins off and we began descending. The snow was indeed poor. A mixture of the hot temperatures and the rain from the previous week had rendered it horrible but at least there was something. This time last year it was almost 20°C and the hills were brown.
We reached the Auberge de la Combaz and took the skis off. All that was left was a pleasant wander back to the car and a quick coffee in the town before a house viewing.
As always, we spent a magical night in the hospice. Time spent with a group of friends, a unique atmosphere and the stillness that comes with staying in the hospice always make for an enjoyable weekend. I look forward already to next year’s weekend.
The night was extremely windy on the Col du Grand Saint Bernard. According to the Meteo Suisse weather station, there had been gusts of up to 150km/h. This was promptly verified when I popped my head out the door before breakfast. This was forecast, and a plan to adapt to this situation had been formed the night before. The decision to descend down to Bourg Saint Pierre was made, and we would hope that the worst of the wind would not have affected the lower altitudes. I said my goodbyes to Brother Rafael until next year, and we made the easy descent back to the car. 500m- of descent was not bad to warm up the quads.
Depart from Bourg Saint Pierre
Starting at the school at Bourg Saint Pierre, it was a rare short descent down to the river. The snow was abundant, but wet. We knew it had rained during the night but hoped it wouldn’t be too bad for the snow pack.
Bridge over the Dranse d’Entremont
The climb up through the forest was pleasant, and the snow-covered trees had an air of stillness. We set a good pace, which was fast but manageable, and we quickly met the treeline. A short traverse was required to navigate an old landslide before meeting the cross that could be seen from below and rejoining the plateau.
The snow felt awful, a thick crust had formed and the underlying layer was wet. We hoped it would improve as we went up. The original plan was just to stop at the cross at Champ Long (2132m), thinking that the snow would be wind beaten higher up. We decided to continue on a bit and see how the snow developed.
Views over to the Crêta de Velle summit
Fortunately, as we continued up it seemed the snow had been sheltered from the wind and was on the limit of snow/rain. It improved as we approached the summit and we even encountered limited patches of semi-fresh powder. The descent would at least have some metres of fun.
A pause was taken at the summit to enjoy a view of the Massif du Mont Blanc to the west and le Grand Combin and Mont Velan to the east. Cups of tea and a sandwich later and skins were off ready to descend.
Descending afforded us about 50m of good snow and 950m of not-so-good snow, but it was enjoyable nonetheless. Arriving back to the end river at the bottom of the valley, my legs were shot. 1000m+ of descent in heavy snow on untrained legs was tough so early in the season and only went to reinforce why I need to go the gym before the new year.
Stats:
Depart 10h45, Summit:13h45, parking 15h
13.2km 1081m+
A visit to the hospice at the Col du Grand Saint Bernard has become a permanent fixture in my diary at the weekend closest to Saint Lucy's Day. Mentally, it marks the first proper days of skiing for the season and is probably one of my most anticipated weekends of the year. Not necessarily for the skiing; in fact, I am still to really experience the slopes of the Western Valais in good condition. I like it more for the atmosphere in the hospice and the time spent with friends after the actual skiing takes place.
Nonetheless, there was some skiing to do, and given mixed conditions and a group of seven, we decided to repeat last year's outing. Les Monts Telliers provides a relatively simple route from the start point at the tunnel at Bourg Saint Bernard, and with the light being extremely flat and snow predicted in the early afternoon, it was a sensible choice.
We arrived at 10 am, and many groups had already set off for the day, with the car park being almost full. Keen also was the majority of our group arriving at 9h15; they also decided to head off before we arrived, giving us 45 minutes to make up.
The route was quite self-explanatory, and we set off towards the valley that spurs off from the road that heads up to the col. The weather was already looking grim by the time we started the main climb, and by the time we turned off towards the la combe de Drône, the snow had started to come down. We had about 500m+ left to do, and it didn’t look great. I was pretty set on making the call and turning around but decided to continue on until cresting the main slope before fully committing to this decision.
Fortunately, we didn’t turn around, as the snow stopped as soon as it had started, and we even managed to punch through the patch of thick clouds. A glimpse of almost blue skies popped out, and then we caught sight of our group ahead of us. This made the idea of turning around seem obsolete and we shuffled on to catch up with guys ahead.
Views over towards Mont Velan looking moody
I remembered the last section of the route being a bit exposed and as we reached the last ridgeline, we decided to take the skis off and bootpack the last 50m+. We were all one big group of seven now and the steps kicked out were gladly borrowed as the top of the mountain had taken a fair amount of wind over the last days. I was slightly concerned at the risk of windslab, but we spaced out and passed the steeper headwall without any issues gladly.
Bootpacking last metres
The weather window we had miraculously found did not look like it was hanging around so after a quick visit to les Monts Telliers summit (2977m), we whipped the skins off and set upon skiing off the top section which was the most tricky section of the route.
View south towards la Pointe de la Drone (2949m) and la Pointe des Trois Lacs (2796m)
Any fears of the summit descent were quickly avoided as the group successfully navigated the tricky traverse on the windy face. All that was left now was the gentle descent back down to the road. The snow was good, light and untracked, but the flat light took away from what would have been excellent on a better day.
All that was left was the last hour climb up to the hospice. There were no complications, but the weather did turn for the worse and required the completely foul weather set of clothes with goggles. In the end, the hospice was a pleasant site.
Hospice du Grand Saint Bernard
Depart: 10h10, Summit: 13h20, Back to the Road: 14h30, Hospice: 15h50
14.1km 1,443m+:
This has become a classic over the last few years to start the season. When there is snow down to the car park and the station is shut, La Dôle gives off the feeling of being much more wild than it is in reality. When the pine trees are covered with fresh snow and the Jura is still, free of winds that often plague plateau, there is a magical calmness that is enchanting. Having these hills at only 45 minutes from my door is a gem that I shouldn’t undervalue and the fact that it isn’t always in condition only makes the good days that bit more enjoyable.
As the was the first day of the season and three out of four of the group had ran the Duc (almost a half marathon) the evening before, only twelve hours previously, meant that a short tour was in order.
Parking the car at the ski station car park in France, it was clear that we were not the only ones who wanted to take advantage of the abundant snow and the station being shut. Booting up, it was bitterly cold and shocked the system after a scorching summer and ridiculously mild autumn period. This was the first time of the year I had this sensation of chill and I was glad to finally see the season had transitioned into winter.
We started up to the south of the station, passing around the back of the blue slope, borrowing the traces left by others. The ascent was steady and without any difficulty. The first conversions of the day on the last slope of the red piste towards the summit were a pleasure, I still remembered how to do it.
The summit came and the we were treated to a pristine cloud inversion over the Leman basin. There was a wavelike cloud feature flowing over la faucille and down towards the le Reculet. A few snaps were taken and the skins were whipped off before we headed south and then east into the bowl in between la Dôle and la Barilette.
Deciding on the steepest face, which is normally a superb little 150m section of 35 degree skiing, was probably not the most intelligent decision as a first descent. The snow was good, but heavier than expected. It must have caught more wind than I had thought and was not the easiest first turns of the season.
View out to la Barilette
First slopes of the season
Everyone survived to tell the tale, a few small tumbles notwithstanding, and we skied down to the bottom of the bowl. Skins back on and a nice solitary traverse across the bowl before starting climbing again. We passed by the Nyon ski club’s winter hut and I was quite lethargic. We’d only been out a few hours but the 600m+ were sufficient.
We passed the summit triangle and packed the skins away. Descending by the ungroomed, well tracked piste was pleasant. The quads burned and I worked up a sweat, and before knowing it the descent was over. Skis off and short trot back to the car. A lovely afternoon’s work.
Stats:
Depart: 12h10, Second summit 14h30, Parking 15h
8.3km 685m+